S/V Papillon

Papillon is reaching along on the favorite point of sail, reaching 12 knots consistently on a glorious almost calm day. Maybe fitting as this will be our last day in the Caribbean. Our Panama Canal agent is terrific, arranging all the details. We have just been treated to an amazing porpoise show, at least 50 beautiful bodies flinging themselves in the air and cavorting around the boat. Hard to pic but heres a few. John is determined it will be a plate of shrimp and Mojitos this PM. John working on his quota of Aruba beer on the port bow. We are definitely in the traffic lanes having just been passed by a freighter whose deck had 15 blades off a wind generator stacked on board. The freighter was 183M long…and the blade4s spanned almost the same amount!!. We were so awe that no one took a pic. The freighter said “Beluga Projects” on the side. John chatted with the bridge and we learn they are manfg in Brazil and are to be installed in Mexico. BC will have to study this phenomena for at least another 20 years! Summary conclusions of sailing to date…Canada you are being left behind so badly…wake up….stop studying and re inventing the wheel!

For better or worse the crew of Papillon will not see Cartagena, Columbia this passage. According to our Special S information source a landing agent is required to process customs etc. As our deadline to transit the canal is rigid we cannot afford any delays here. It could take several days we understand. We are presently about 35Nm off Barranquilla, yet another place we are told not to linger. We have just lowered the mainsail and are now genoa alone as Papillon wasd being overpowered in strong dead down wind conditions and large waves. The ride is much improved and AUTO is now happier. Well true to his reputation John delivered a fine tuna this AM and dinner was grilled tuna steaks and scalloped potatoes, washed down with misc red wine from the Carib. Of note are the colder night time temperatures with crew wearing extra sweaters thru the night. Water temperature has dropped to low 27’s. A walk around the deck inevitable finds a flying fish stranded in the trampolines. This e mail was interrupted for one hour as an unidentified vessel maintained collision course with us. Everyone up. The vessel finally detoured around our stern. Nervous moments. The final picture, looking astern as Papillon surfs down yet again another massive wave.

Papillon left Aruba around 4:30 PM local time and sailed into a glorious sunset. Our course is direct to Panama with an ETA of Friday afternoon and Mojitos at the Shelter Bay Marina where we will tie up and await our instructions to transit the canal. We waited in Aruba most of the day to take on fuel, which after a long holiday weekend was dry of fuel. Here’s Angela filling the two tanks with cheap Venezuelan diesel. So far the wind has been mid 20 knots with peaks to 35 knots so we are under sail, making good speed with boat speeds surfing to 15 Knots. The stretch is known as the 5th most “bumpy” ride in terms of world cruising, and it is living up to its rating. John Porter who joined us in Aruba is a welcome addition and allows more sleep during the night hours. I brought in dawn at 5:30AM and John took over. I awoke two hours later to John stuffing a small (perfect size) tuna in the cooler. Dinner tonight! The lifestyles of Arubians and tourists, a typical beach, shared with Iguanas that almost outnumber the Mercedes Benz. Hilight for Lawrence was a visit to the new Papillon Restaurant…the decor was film sets from the Movie. Dinner was phenomenal…Carib and French. Service was extraordinary especially after I donated a Papillon hat to the owner. With a whitecapped ocean vista to the horizon all around, difficult to find pics. Moved our local clock back to Panama time, which I believe is 2 hours ahead of Victoria, BC? Well Angela is up and its happy hour, albeit 1:30PM. Tins of Aruba beer alaround. 180 Nm to Cartagena. Papillon is moving along the Colombian coast 75 Nm offshore. We were buzzed by an aeroplane yesterday at sunset, so we trust someone knows that we are silently moving along the coast. Lights out again tonight!

Well the ABC islands are an adventure in extremes. Here in Aruba Casinos, Iguanas, Cruise ships and Luxury Stores selling all that the Swiss and Dutch can craft, also Tommy Hilfiger. As we sighted the South end of Aruba, all we saw were smoke stacks belching ……what turned out to be very noxious sulphur compounds…which we sailed through choking and gasping…Oil refineries!! As night fall came we entered Oranjestad Harbour and were seized upon by Customs and herded to their wharf. 3 hours later we had entered Aruba. They kindly allowed us an overnight stay at their in box. Albeit against black rubber tires, that left their marks. This AM we were instructed to the spot you see. I guess we’ll drop a few quarters tonight. The highlite will be to visit the new Papillon Resturant, and see iff we can bring back some souvenirs. An adjacent Hotel concierge gacefully gave us the menu when she saw my hat, bearing the same name. The menu half recounts the actual Henri Charriere story! Well Angela is off laundrying at the Hotel that has comprehensive services. Its Easter Sunday and all is shut down. John Porter arrives tomorrow at 3:00PM and we will plot a course to Cartagena, Colombia, then onwards to the Panama. This e-mail was delivered via satellite phone using GMN’s XGate software. Please be kind and keep your replies short.

Papillon sailed into Spanish Harbour,Curacao a natural inland water way of vacation homes and boats. Being that it was Good Friday, all and every shop was closed, so for the first time we visit a country there were no souvenir beach towels taken…not even a token beer glass from the bar of Curacao Yacht Club from where we landed in the rubber boat, leaving Papillon at anchor in a crowded and very windy waterway. The bar manager at the YachtClub was only too happy to assist wayward Canadians in serach of something Curacao to take home and sent us down town on a taxi ride. Seems the Island boasts two things; oil refineries and bankrupt resorts. From the eye point of view very picturesque with somev history having incredible natural harbours, choked with oil tankers. We did find an all purpose drug store within a hotel and both picked up a souvenier color plate book on the Island. So back on Papillon, dinner of scalloped potatoes and steak and off to bed. Tomorrow will be a 55 Nm sail to Aruba, to meet John Porter from Vancouiver. Then iff time permits off to “the” notorious Cartagena, Colombia en route Panama.
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